Pretty minor undertaking but educational nonetheless. The stock springs in Oil Kings are far too heavy for my liking so I decided to give Sprit springs a try since Divinikey had a sale recently. I expected to like the 50g Slow Extreme Is more but of course, it ended up being the exact opposite. The extra length of the Extreme IIs makes all the difference in Oil Kings as it helps retain the same clacky signature on the upstroke as the stock springs. Without that upstroke sound they fall a bit flat, IMO. With lighter springs that retain the same sound signature I’m genuinely excited to give these a try.
Additional thought: these things have me thinking more about using oil rather than a grease as lubricant. I do have some spare Gateron Yellows that I may give this a go on.
I like them. They remind me of Ink Blacks, but have some refinement in the same way I enjoyed moving from T1s to Boba U4Ts.
Yeah, they did a good job analyzing the market from all aspects and incorporating that into a board that is both accessible to a larger audience and does not suffer from many compromises. I do think it’s a board of a certain taste though. I’m finding the more I use it, the more I think it’s a bit too flexible. BUT, I think that’s actually a good thing because it’s so much easier to mod it to be a little more firm vs. if they had made it too stiff with metal standoffs that would be a pain to remove. I think I’m going to add some foam to the bottom in thin sheets until I get to a point where I like it with some certainty.
I finally started building two Púcas the other day only to get immediately halted by the step where you have to bridge four groups of two pads to make the OLED work as depicted in this photo from the build guide.
Nightmare scenario where I feel like I’m just gonna end up destroying the board.
Those 4 are just going straight down to the 4 in the small “box”? That’s easy and u got nothing to worry about if you are able to solder regular stuff.
the rightmost group of two pads is done (it has too much solder but the pads should be bridged). Getting solder to stick to the other pads and their immediate neighbors hasn’t worked out. I’ll come back to it soon.
Looking into this one a little more; it looks like they are currently testing with other plate materials and haven’t released a file yet, and haven’t decided yet if they’ll release an “official” one.
However if you’d like to join-in on the experimentation with the potential caveats that may entail, I can probably help. If you can send me a fairly high-resolution scan of the plate itself, I can translate that into a file. It may not be perfect and may entail some development iteration, but I also think it would be a fun project.
From what I can tell, the flex of the Tiger 80 looks more dependent on leaf-spring-like shapes on the plate more than the material between them and the case - so I’d also bet the degree of flex could be tuned within a given material by changing those shapes, assuming there’s room to do that. For example, filling-in some of that space between the leaf spring shape and the rest of the plate (effectively shortening the leaf spring) to reduce the bounce / flex / range of movement.
will update if seller falls through.