Another term I’ve seen you use a few times is ‘MFR’ for Manufacturer, I assume because using OEM (Orginal Equipment Manufacturer) in the keyboard realm would be confusing since its commonly used to describe a specific keycap profile? Despite knowing what you mean when you say ‘MFR’, the degen in me reads it as ‘mf’er’.
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I will make franks.
Stem I will take from KTT mallo. And the body is from a bsun panda.
There will be a full pom switch, light tactile.
The spring has not yet decided from what.
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stuck
stuck
:((
In general, whoever decides to do the same.
First, buy ktt mallo switches, more for 30+ pieces.
Second, do not lubricate them with kraitox. It is better to make a franc without lubrication at all. But if lubricated, then just oil.
The spring can be lubricated with anything.
The resulting franc is quite quiet. But the friction sound that tactile switches still have. Maybe because of sticking or the spring is too light (the spring is from a panda bsun, double, by 67 grams, but for me it’s like 47.) the bounce up is quiet.
Another 70 blue pandas are coming to me. It is necessary to order another ktt mallo pieces 70. In order to make a complete set of only normal ones. without sticking.
Only stem from ktt sticks together.
Replacing bottom or something else does not help. You just take another stem and either it’s good or you need another stem)))
I had 70 pandas and 60 ktt mallos.
38 pieces came out. There are only 32 of them very well. 2 is ok BUT the move is slightly different. And 4 pieces stick a little. I put them on mods.
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I gotta say…kbd8x actually is a pretty good looking board - simple and elegant!
For the typing feel (though I have not owned nor typed on one), I think must be really good because the mounting points are pretty well placed, and there are sort of “flex” cuts between the F-row & num row and alphas & nav / arrow clusters.
Sadly, in the hobby people just bashes kbdfans, and kbd8x suffers a dropped in prestige. And people calling this board outdated when in GBs we keep seeing top mounted boards with similar or classic kustom designs - kinda ridiculous. 
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I’m a KBDfans fan.
They’ve made a derpy board or two but I think they’ve done a lot for the general keeb space, and I also think a few of their boards are pretty awesome. They have a few classics to their name at this point, too.
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Time to tune my brand new Model F to my liking.
First a little bit of floss mod to remove the ping while keeping the click, this is very effective.
Also tuned some stabilized keys that were binding a little bit, there are informations on how to do that with videos on @Ellipse website.
Then the spacebar, this rattly mess 
I do understand that many people like it as it is, but after having chased any possible ticks on my own customs I could not leave it like that.
So after one layer on electrical tape below the metal inserts and a good amount of dielectric grease, not more rattleling!
The electrical tape mod was mentioned in the Model F website.
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I left my space bar stock for the longest time. Finally hit it with the dielectric a few months back and it’s 10000% better. I might try the tape as well.
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Getting some macros of NK_ Charcoal, thought my camera looked a bit like a cartoon elephant.
Edit: if you’re curious, here’s the photo I was taking at the time:
The three sections of the lens nearest to the camera are actually extension tubes, which make a lens have a closer focal distance, allowing you to get the camera physically closer to a subject. The trade off is some loss of clarity around the edges along with some other minor caveats, but if all you’re trying to do is capture detail, they’re a lot cheaper than a dedicated macro lens.
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Lol taking a photo of taking a photo
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how was the outcome of the floss mod! sound wise and typing feel wise?
Thanks! I really like the board. It is not without some faults though. I think it is best with a half-plate, but the flex cuts on the PCB allow for you PCB to hit the bottom of the case. I think with a half-plate, it would be nicer with a regular style PCB, that or the case should have a little more room in the bottom.
Also the top case pings quite a bit, however this is easily fixed with the “force break” mod. With these two modifications, I think the board really shines. My only other nit-pick is the logo on the brass weight on the bottom. I wish it was a little more tasteful, but I get why they did it.
The KBD8x is a ai03 designed board. I believe the rumor was that he had a partnership with KBDfans, but KBD did something shady and broke the relationship. It is a shame really. I think they could have done some great things together. Now ai03, is basically doing the same thing with CannonKeys - ai03 has joined CannonKeys
1 Like
At the last stage of my first build in this hobby. It’s a U80-A Seq 2 with Gateron Yellow Pros and C3 Equalz stabs that I lubed with Dow Corning 11 Compound (some old silicone grease that still goes strong), at least until my Krytox arrives.
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Two classy boards on one desk 
Congrats on the first build!
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leopold mx vs topre housing differences
thought to swap the topre innards (fc980c) into a 980m case,
ran into these long boi standoffs that will need permanent filing/cutting to make the topre pcb fit which does not have holes at those junctions. TY @rooski15 for sending stock controller 
see long bois on yellow, gonna have to knock em down to match the beige ones
hiding in plain sight
no to non-reversible mods for now
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It’s a little rough around the edges (literally), but I’m having fun trying a homemade bass noise amplifier / storage “case” to bring out the sound of those alps, the planck’s small size notwithstanding.
Just tinkering with cheap plywood for now…
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If you sell these cases please call them Planks
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And the full-size version Max Plank, pls.
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Or Planckwood🤔
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Loving this.
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