First one is a blue Saka68 with blue alu plate and blue badge. Managed to grab it for 50usd. Just couldn’t say no to that. Now i just need to get a hold of Plate and PCB files just to future-proof it.
Also managed to geta grey D60 list Case with PC plate for 20usd.
2 Boxes of KTT’s 25th anniversary celebrating switch samplers.
A set of Mint BCP, supposedly made by “Star Energy”. Just so i can add them to the “BCP” collection. Also a few other sets of Switches like old Trantek branded TTC, some Keygeek FM, etc.
Valkyrie exclusive Lichicx switches since Lichicx is shutting down.
Now i’m on the Hunt for at least 90 of Gateron Merlot, Inett NS1, some kind of completely black Silent switch, some alu HHKB case/board, a set of those Dye-Sub Space Cadett keycaps that have been evading me so far.
I have only used the default and that has been good for me. There is a guy in my local community that swears by using a nozzle with a slightly bigger hole, but I don’t know the size.
I will say that this tool has really helped to keep that default nozzle clean: Amazon.com
Works way better than that little metal shank piece that comes with the kit.
Oh that’s interesting. I would have thought they would last longer than having to replace it per keyboard. Even if trying to take proper care re-tinning and cleaning the hole?
Thanks, I’ll take a look at ordering a nozzle with slightly bigger hole to give it a try in addition to the included one.
Oh nice, will get one of those.
What about for mill-max sockets? Has anyone tried using the default on mill-max sockets?
Also, anyone with any experiences with the oval-shaped hole nozzles?
That’s a good question, I’ve never used a desoldering gun to pull mill-max sockets. Although given they need to be thicker than MX pins I’m gonna say you’ll need a bigger tip than 1mm for them. ALPS pins are just slightly wider than MX & they don’t fit the 1mm IME so from that I’d say grab a slightly bigger one just to be safe with the mill-max sockets. Then I don’t have any experience with the oval shaped tips myself. I’ll only pull the desoldering gun out when I’m desoldering a whole board so the uses have been few & far between for me.
They are a consumable from what I understand, but I’ll also say I’m still on my first one with my Hakko and I’ve probably desoldered around ten boards with it so far. Looks a little rough but still works like a champ. I think mine came with an extra that I haven’t had to use yet but I’m glad it’s there.
I use this “sucker” from Aliexpress by recommendation of below video (first up). At first, I was sceptical, but it works very well unlike the really cheap stuff they sell at my local electronics shop. Anyhow, not that expensive at all and quickly delivered.
Hah, yeah, I was looking at the YIHUA 929D-V (or one that looked just like it) and the S-993A before deciding to just pony up the extra coin for the Hakko FR-301.
Didn’t post about this earlier since I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to join the buy or not, thankfully I was able to! Managed to get into the small run of Viktus’ (BlindAssassin) last board (VKR-94) he’s making before he closes shop for good. I ended up going with the Dark Wine color (a deep red) & brass weight/accents. It comes with a brass plate, but I’m gonna have a PP plate cut for mine. Super happy I was able to join as I never got a Vitkus board for my collection, despite really loving most of his designs. Seemed like every time he had a GB for a board I just didn’t have the extra loot to join, so I jumped at the opportunity when I found out about this! This will also easily be the most exclusive board I’ve gotten in on so far as there is only 11 of these being made AFAIK. Definitely looking forward to this one!
Thanks! I actually messaged him on discord when I heard he was closing up shop since I’ve talked to him on & off ever since he ran the Nexus ALPS sliders way back when. He told me about it during that conversation. I think he has the server set to just be accessible by him & those of us in this final GB now.
A family member gave me a hefty Divinikey gift card (woo!)
I used about 2/3 of it for switches, most of which are ones I already know I like, or are revisions / different versions of ones I like, with a couple that are new to me. They’re all sold-out of my preferred stabs (and the second Neo I was considering) so I saved some of the card for when they re-stock, but I got a nice discount on the switches thanks to the fall sale still going on this evening!
Highlights include some more Rollers, updated Strawberry Wines, Sea Salt Smoothies (a little more spring weight and a tiny bit more travel vs standard), and some Pantheon “This Switch is Called” linears.
For my soldering needs, a cheap $25 soldering pen has been good enough so far.
I’m thinking about getting one of those 3D sculpting pen. 3D printers are, of course, far more accurate and consistent but using them for quickly making structural changes to a board would be too tedious bc of all the measurements and development iterations. With 3D sculpting pens, I can just sculpt and adjust by hand with real-time feedback.
I have one of these, and it’s a fun toy, as well as a useful tool for touchups and kludgey but effective repairs. It was critical in assembling a helmet for my daughter’s Halloween costume a year ago, and I’ve used it to reinforce mounting hardware and seams, and to create a flange to mount a 3-D printed part to a metal plate. I would advise keeping your expectations modest though, especially in the beginning. It’s a good bit more precise than a hot glue gun, but closer to that than to a proper 3D printer. I like this Adam Savage video as a quick primer into what to exptect going in.
Cool. My introduction to 3D pens is Sanago, a Korean YouTuber who builds fun stuff or do quirky stuff like filling cracks he finds on the street with outdoor diorama.
I’ve been meaning to replace the PCB of a cheap TKL but lacked proper mount for the daughter board. With 3D pen, I should be able build the mount directly into the case. Easy to smooth and adjust with a solder gun or mini torch.
from Aliexpress by recommendation of below video (first up). At first, I was sceptical, but it works very well unlike the really cheap stuff they sell at my local electronics shop. Anyhow, not that expensive at all and quickly delivered.
