I’m saving money but might pick up the BOM to build @ rpiguy9907 's Rosalina PCB I was given by a local meet group bud (I have an extra Atmega or two) along with some mill max sockets for that and my Mokulua kit.
The little ones are expensive, and the tall ones are fine for the Mokulua, but I’d want the little ones for something with a case. Will think on that.
To relay the story from Derek at NK, the manufacturer mislabeled the switches and they pulled them from the store once they found the issue. NK also refunded me the costs and said to keep them.
Anybody need 180 Midnight Jades?
“Need” is a very strong word, but if they’re just recolored Jades, I’d at least be interested, though housing color is not a sweetener for me. You want a trade for an alu plate handwire? 
Could also talk price in DM.
Glad to hear that! I’m not going to be negative and name names, but there are several vendors who should take note that this is how you build a loyal customer base.
@schizobovine, DM me if @wjrii passes on them? I don’t need all 180, but I’d be interested in about 60ish of the Midnight Jades.
Thinking of ordering the following:
Things I have ordered and am waiting on:
Just wanted to note that if you’re considering buying the Box 75 on the aftermarket, you should know that NovelKeys had been selling it on clearance for $150 and still has some PCBs for sale. Value is subjective, but that 75% price drop for new boards seems to say that the demand for this board is fairly soft and should be reflected in lower aftermarket pricing.
Right, missed out on the clearance. I really like the layout but seems not many like the navigation cluster being an offset of the base row.
The overall design is definitely a bit polarizing, but I feel like the exploded nav cluster group is pretty common now on 75% layouts.
Ouch. Just wanted to warn you away from sellers pricing it at $900 with the usual “I know what I got” attitude 
Ended up hitting for few hundred on a $10 scratch off lotto ticket today! So I treated myself a little bit. Grabbed 2 Hiney H87c purple nurple PCBs (1.2mm CEM) one of each way for the spacebar. Then I grabbed that Gateron Twins keycap/switch puller & a batch of KTT Vanilla Ice Cream switches from Lume Keebs. Want to give the Twins puller a try since I really liked the cheapo one I got, but it’s has seams at the bends on the plastic tongs. Which is causing the one side to slowly break. The Twins puller doesn’t have that seam so I’m hoping it holds up better. Then the KTT Vanilla ice cream switches were on discount so I figured why not give them a try. They got a POK bottom housing & stem, then top housing is a unspecified proprietary KTT blend.
Okay, this is it. My last major purchase for the foreseeable future.
I have no idea what to expect with the 3D printed case, if anyone has experience please share.
what are you using the PCBs in?
The north one is going in my Dolphin after I get a PP plate made for it. I’m currently using the regular FR4 h87c south & I’m pretty sure it should have a north facing spacebar stab. Since the PCB it came with has north space stab & while it works fine with with straight GMK spacebars, if the spacebar has the slightest warp it starts to bind & feel sluggish. It’s very tempermental with spacebars (7u), then I reseated the stab, removed lube, etc. with no change. So I’m thinking it has to be the spacebar stab orientation at this point. The south one I’m thinking of holding on to till I get my F18X v2 & using it for the plateless build I’m planning.
No idea with that particular case, but in general PLA is more than adequately strong as long as you don’t leave it in a car, and while there’s definitely a certain aesthetic if you don’t go insane with filler, sanding, and paint, your filament choice there should complement it rather nicely. It can be brittle, but responds well to super glue and other repairs. Sound is likely to be in line with ABS, as it’s pretty hard (unless, again, it melts). I assume the Boston is well designed if RNDKBD is going to the trouble of selling them. So happy somebody pulled the trigger on one because I am looking forward to build pics! Any thoughts on how to fill out your extra row?
A keyboard with an FCC ID that belongs to Yantai. Now i have some better Photos, now that it’s in the superbuy Warehouse. If anyone recognizes them, let me know. I feel like they are not Aristotle Yellow because the stem color is different and the sides of the stem opening on the top housing. Maybe Yantai MX Yellows?
Thanks for the advice on PLA, I have high hopes that it turns out nice.
I’m thinking of moving my KAM_Superuser keys to this board and wanted to find an International kit to mix/match on the top row. Sadly, no one has them in stock so I picked up a few blank DSA caps from Ali that are a close color…
I also have some clear SA R3 caps that I may use with green LED backlighting purely for the visuals. Top row will be blank until I decide what macros to program. Will definitely be posting progress and build pics.
Ordered
I’ve been meaning to try a switch using polymide material and Mekanisk Ultramarine was the only one in-stock but pricey. I stopped by to order more long springs I liked and found the switch on sale.
CK Springs are top notch. Geon springs are very good too but more limited in available weights. Of available CK Springs, I liked the 58g 2-stage super longs (23mm) and 55g 3-stage longs (21mm) mainly bc they fill in weight gaps I started to notice more as my recent taste has leaned toward tighter feel.
Two recent switches with surprisingly good stock springs are:
UPDATE: The reason I like springs made using Korean steel, like CK and Geon springs, is that their wires and joints tend to be thinner and spacing sparser than others. I don’t know why but my best guess is that they are stronger. Obvious benefits I noticed are less crunch noise and less tangle.
Do you notice any differences between single stage, double stage, and triple stage springs? And of the three, what are your preferences?
I can tell the difference but:
So I can say my preference in springs have shifted to multi-stage springs. But it’s not clear if the shifted is the result of my switch preference shifting to types that benefit the most from multi-stage springs.
Top weight is what I care most about when it comes to springs and spring length seems to have greater impact on top weight than number of stages.
I showed for the 2nd Encore drop and got a black/walnut with an extra white oak accent. You can still get an extra accent if you want! I decided ahead of time I didn’t want a copper bottom, which I probably wouldn’t have gotten anyway - those sold so so fast.
Yeah, I wasn’t planning on getting the Encore but thought to check it out anyway. Not even a minute past the event and the whites with the copper bottoms were already sold out.
