I am wondering if plateless helps with the hotswap switch insertion as it won’t need the same force as with a plate 
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Nah, you really don’t want to insert switches in a HS PCB without the sockets being supported period IME. The sockets are just held on by two small pads surface soldered to the back of the PCB with no pins or any other type of mechanical connection for it. So if one of the pads are poorly soldered it is very easy to have the joint separate from a surprisingly small amount of pressure.
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Stuff and things. Really happy with all of these sets. Everything looks even better than I expected. 
Also, I’m officially out of room for keycap storage. 
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GATERON Pro Glory Red Switch
Glory Red Switch
• Type: Linear
• Operation Force: 45gf
• Pre-Travel: 2.0mm
• Total Travel: 3.6mm
• Stem: POK
• Top Housing: Nylon
• Bottom Housing: Nylon
• Spring: 22mm
• LED Support：SMD
• Pre-lubed: Yes
• Pins: 5-Pin
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Well, the tray structure allows pretty unique overall case designs but yeah, that’s the only real benefit I guess, and it has some drawbacks too. Not supporting hotswap sockets may be one of those but it wasn’t my concern with this build because 1) you can put in switches really easily, without any effort really. On the contrary: pulling keycaps often removes switches too. At least with the Gat Quinns an Akko silent fairies I tried. 2) In addition, the PCB sits on a really thick poron foam which doesn’t allow any wiggle room for the PCB and is enough support imo (I’m not sure about the new foam though).
The flex you can see at 6:35 is interesting. Maybe the foam is missing there? My build behaves differently. In my experience there’s no flex in the pcb (no room for this because of the foam) but an overall springy suspension. The whole pcb moves up and down a bit while typing. A large part of this is caused by the folded ribbon cables I guess which may act like leaf springs, especially in the upper row.
Yep, and the potential issues imo:
The tray fits pretty tightly. With the pcb protruding a bit here and there (slightly lifted by the foam over the top plane of the tray) it’s stuck. Struggling with the tray is apparently cut out from the video (at 5:40) :). This isn’t really a problem since you do this once or only rarely, and all you have to do is pressing the pcb into the tray while sliding it into the case. However, don’t expect a buttery smooth sliding in of the tray. At least with the old foam, the new one may resolve this.
The other potential annoyance is that you have to remove all the caps and switches to be able to remove the tray. Guess who forgot tightening a screw in a stab and realized this only after fully building the board… 
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Do you like the switch? The spring seems like it would be too light for my taste but the rest looks good.
This looks like their Cream Soda switch with three changes:
- Stem is made of POK instead of Nylon
- Bottom housing is made of Nylon instead of Ink material
- Spring weight reduced to 45g from 63g[1] and increased length to 22mm from 18mm
[1] I’m using Cream Soda with stock spring bc it feels like 58g than 63g long spring.
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Not today but got these in last week. Silver from GEON and green from mechmarket.
Just need to cut some custom plates. Can’t wait to build these.
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Kat Floofy Boi Desk Mat arrived. I had gone with the small version, which was supposed to end up taking longer since they had to remake them or something since they said they were forwarded to the wrong location; either way, it showed up even though they had said late May to early June. It’s adorable.
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The lubrication and weight of the spring gives the feeling that this is a medium-heavy switch. It has a stronger pushing force upward than downward.
The body is good, no film is needed, no wobbling. But the wobbling “stem” is slightly above average, at the highest point and at the lowest point.
Press form from “g pro 3.0”
The sound is quite deep, low, not loud.
I uploaded my typical videos to Instagram and YouTube.
Now we can say the disadvantages or features.
The first thing is there is a moment in the video. When you lightly tap the keycap, there is a high-pitched sound; it also occurs if you accidentally press the keycap while printing. Such a high, clicking, clicking sound.
I also came across a moment when, when pressed all the way down, when pressed to the bottom while rocking, it seemed to catch something. This can also be caught when you use running in the game, since sometimes it is pressed as if at an angle. But so far I have only found one of 10 of these. Maybe I was just unlucky, when printing text you don’t feel it, only if in a game or at a crooked angle, pressing the stem all the way down.
Still, the switch is good. Today I will put together option one. And I will record the typing sound. I’ll update this post in 10+ hours. 
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Yeah nooo…
Cream soda switch is an awesome switch. I also use the default stock one. Its trick is that the sound really comes out like fizzy water, carbonated water. Especially if the plate is made of plastic like PC or Pom, and the keycaps are abs, it’s better to use gmk.
Only slightly similar in color)
Case color.
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Good tips. I’ll try them as well when switches arrive. Thx.
I know exactly what you mean. I dislike this about a lot of Gateron switches. I used to heavily lubricant the top housing to quiet it. Now I just buy different switches 
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I use thick PBT keycaps.)
They muffle the sound.
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Got some Roselle switches since @donpark liked them so much. So far they are quite nice. I love the color and the spring weight too.
Gave me a little inspiration for mixing and matching GMK sets:
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Oh my, that’s absolutely gorgeous. What is it, how much and can I get my hands on one?