I have a similar situation as you with stabilizer frustrations.
BDZ worked wonders for me. No syringes, no dumping superlube on the wire. The secret ingredient is painting a thin layer on the wire and everywhere inside the stabilizer insert. This creates a much more consistent application, and BDZ is tacky enough to keep the wire from bouncing around.
An eclectic tester for someone whose keeb I’ll be building.
This will be her first mech, so I wanted to cast a pretty broad net here. Sometimes I’ll do this, and then re-load the tester with another round of switches based on what they like from the first, honing-in on their preference.
Not quite an entire “Stab Assessment” post, but I’ve got some more evidence on what, or who might be up for nefarious deeds in keyboard city.
Cheapo Dielectric grease: CONFIRMED
After 2 minutes of casual use, it leaked like this:
Kids, this is why you never buy dielectric from anywhere else than permatex.
Wonky Spacebar Cap: CONFIRMED
Dunno really what this effects, but when your cheapo OEM keyboard space bar does better, you know something’s up (bonus points if you know what membrane I’m using :< )
Now that these criminals are in justice’s hands, here are some fixes that MAY just work:
Real Dielectric Grease: @ajoflo’s stab tester came today and it looks like he used the “real” one. @fatalruin was right, the viscosity is MUCH different.
To quote Shannon from Despicable Me 2:
There are so many phonies out there. I hate phonies.
BDZ: There’s a guy that I follow very closely in keyboard content and he seems to really like BDZ over dielectric grease. I’m kinda liking to sound of not having a “sticky” grease, but this stuff is worth it’s weight in gold compared to the method above.
GMK spacebars: Colorful, available, and most importantly, ABS. “PBT = Warp” is what’s going around my brain, and really don’t wanna scald myself in near-boiling water for something that might not even work.
Toodles and I’ll see if I can manage to get one up by next week 
Dude I totally underestimated the grease in a syringe method. Bought some from TKC and tuned two boards that needed it badly and was pleasantly surprised by how easy and effective it is.
GMK has had their share of warped space bars recently, which is even more infuriating at GMK prices!
It’s getting bad enough that a few cheap NicePBT sets that I’ve purchased in the past year have straighter bars than the GMK sets that were delivered in the same time period. For the price we are paying, it’s quite unacceptable.
There’s so much truth to that. I just need Apple to come out with an ortho laptop so switching back and forth isn’t mission impossible.
How do you like the wuque stabs? I like them, but there is a tiny bit or rattly i can’t get rid of. Its still very good, but its still there. Maybe its just me being inept.
My Wuque stabs also have a tenacious light rattle. If nothing else they require a bit more skill to successfully tune than average.
Yeah no, i also think i might get some dialectric grease to see if it is any better than krytox, and try improve my wire balancing skills, cos every time i try wire bend i fuck it up more than it already was.
I haven’t tried it myself, but in theory(in my mind) a vice/vise would make it easy to straighten the wire. 
There’s definitely an ever so slight rattle in my 2u stabs but I thought it was just my simplistic tuning style. I’ve just been doing the 205g0 on everything method.
I wonder if we should try that new ultra thick stab only lube: Krytox XHT-BDZ Stabilizer Lube – 3DKeebs
Huh, i havent heard of that before. I think I’ll get both that krytox stuff and dialectric and see which is better.
Any thoughts on how this compares to classic old Permatex? I still have plenty, but I when I run out, I am tempted to try XHT-BDZ.
I’ve been exclusively using xht-bdz for the longest time (caveat… I don’t know what dielectric grease even feels like on wire ends anymore). Mostly because I still have a tub of leftovers from car stuff I did a long time ago.
In any case, the goopy marshmallow texture of xht-bdz on wire ends helps decelerate the wire movement so it doesn’t end up moving as much even if you’ve got strong springs.
Essentially, xht-bdz helps reduce the potential energy of your wire movement (especially the return) and gums up the wire quite a bit so they’ll be less likely to mini vibrate and inadvertently hit the plate, pcb, and (somewhat indirectly) the case. An added benefit is no need to re-tune cause they really stay there (xht-bdz was designed for industrial punishment at insane Temps from high rpm sooooo). In my experience, XHT-BDZ is especially helpful when your only option is plate mount stabs.
A small caveat is that the stab might be gummy feeling if your application is too liberal, but that’s nothing a few hundred normal presses can’t fix in my experience.
Edit: Apparently, I deleted this by accident lol.
Oooh, I didnt get any photos, but I fixed a board for a friend today. He had built a lovely Basketweave acrylic board and forgot to put the stablizers in before soldering. In the process of trying to use a solder wick to remove a space bar and squeeze the stabilizers in (which cannot be done), he lifted both pads off.
So, I managed to desolder it, fix the two lifted pads, lube his stablizers, and resolder the board. Was a fun project and only took me about an hour and a half. Interesting little board. I don’t own anything with knobs so I had fun turning and pushing on it. (TWSS?)
Another day, another tester; this time all about the hush.
Top-left to bottom-right:
*All of these are clasically dampened switches except this franken I threw together this evening from a Momoka Frog stem and bottom, Tecsee Diamond UHMWPE top, and Halo True spring. The idea here is a silky-feeling switch that encourages quiet typing.
I do think it feels nice and silky, fairly solid, and it does manage to be more quiet than one or two of the others here provided you don’t hammer it - but I think there’s more potential to be teased from this theory.
Leopold numpad with custom PCB for VIAL support. It was my first time installing all of the PCB surface components. After a lot of work, the excitement of windows recognizing a USB device is pretty awesome.
NGL seeing the laser etched direction on the switch diodes was tricky. Had to hold each one up to the light with a magnifying glass at a particular angle to actually be able to see the markings. Next time will come up with a better system when removing from packaging and or get ones with the white markings.
Whoa! I didn’t even know that was a thing. Unfortunately, I don’t see this product listed on the Anykey.eu site. Was this a custom?
It is open sourced from evyd13 GitHub - evyd13/nt-series: Replacement PCBs for the FC660m, FC750r and FC980m.. I customized it a little bit to remove extra key positions I didn’t want to use (will eventually post my fork on GitHub).
Have a few extra unbuilt PCBs if you want one give shoot me a DM.
