- Learn QMK for RP2040 microcontrollers
- Design PCB and Walnut “picture frame” case for a 60%+Numpad to use up all my Alps White switches.
- Design and laser-cut stackable keycap boxes. Anybody willing to give me external measurements on GMK’s packaging? Seems like a good “standard” size.
- Categorize and reorganize.
- Rebuild or replace my 3D Printer.
- Install the floating shelves still in their box in the corner of their room.
- Design and laser-cut some quick and dirty keyboard stands for those shelves.
Add the Speed Navies I have, and some WOB, Blue, and Green QX SA caps to my cheap RK96 gamer board. I am not trusting low-end hot-swap PCB’s anymore, though. I’ll be taking the thing apart to support the sockets, and maybe to remove the battery. There’s an alternate world where I do that with an FL-Esports 1800-type and the spacebar doesn’t come loose and I never start doing my own boards at all… but probably not.
DONE, though the greens didn’t look quite right.- Build my g-d desk.
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Oh man if I’m being generous there’s so many things on my to-do list lolol, but at least currently I NEED to finally get around to desoldering a board that I have been meaning to do.
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- Build Norbauer Datapad
- Sell all keyboards (including the above)
- Use sale money to fund a prototype of something I’ve designed on and off for a few years
- Open source design, quit hobby
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- Replace the PCB in my Cycle8. The one it came with absolutely REFUSES to work with what’s in QMK master and nothing I’ve tried gets it working. Incredibly frustrating, as the physical build was so nice (I love the ball-catch mechanism), but the software part of things has been so stupid.
- Setup UV LEDs (or other LEDs, need to test if visible light ones work as well) for activating the cases of the Classic-Glow I have
- Assemble the 60% per-key/underglow board I designed (made a mistake with the TEST_EN pin, had to get a new board revision)
- Design a similar per-key/underglow board in h87 TKL layout (looked at the Apollo as a base, but it’s got a lot of extra parts I don’t need; might try basing it on the Fuyu)
- Figure out how to get more TKL plates that are ISO enter compatible – it really sucks that there are 3 different cheap, injection-molded TKL keyboards out right now (NK Classic, Swagkeys Transition Lite, and KBDFans Tiger Lite Gaming), but NONE of them are ISO enter compatible or able to do even a plateless build.
How much of this will I ever actually get done? Who knows! 
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Directly board-related:
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Pick a keyset to use on my white P.02 and build it
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Re-build my copper Salvation with a different PCB so I can actually use it (alas, my brain is just too basic for split backspace)
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Assemble the cream Tess65 when it arrives, and top it off with MTNU Rascals
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Acquire a Topre keyboard, hopefully beige, for URSA Minicom (Anybody know if the F660C is ever gonna restock anywhere? Any alternative suggestions to go with the set?)
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Try the gasket adapters I got for my Margo
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Install new-gen stabs in more of my existing boards
Keeb-adjacent:
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Put up the 2nd set of shelves I got so more of my switch collection can live on the wall
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Un-wordpress my website so it loads reasonably fast and stops breaking itself
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Take some nice photos of my collection with my real camera
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Get a sheet of torrefied instrument wood and have a plate made from it
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I put MT3 WoB on mine and haven’t swapped since (almost 4 years now). I feel like it’s a perfect blend of modern/minimal with a touch of retro feel. Just my 2 cents.
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If you’re a coder I’m sure there’s a lot of thoughts you have on this, but if you’re less code inclined, check out https://getpublii.com/
Converting from wordpress to this should be a breeze!
What it is is a local-first CMS; so you open up the app on your computer (could be offline), do all your edits, then 1 click upload the compiled website to any host you like (could even be cloudflare or github pages). And the local app can’t really “break” by itself, like Wordpress does.
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- Try to fix a Cyber60 board I ripped some traces off of trying to remove the USB port off of.
- Open up and rebuild my HHKB to do general maintenance like lube and swap the spacebar and stab assembly to Mx. This has been hard for me to get done because I haven’t done one in a while and also because the board hasn’t come off my desk.
- Get another HHKB Pro2 and BLE controller in anticipation of URSA coming. Probably have plenty of time on this
- Figure out how to convert battery cable from mini 150mha battery I got to use with above Cyber 60.
- Create hardwood wrist rest for my Sagittarius keyboard. I’ve, for the most part, stopped using wrist rests but I’ve always had my heart set on having one to go with the board.
- Gift some boards to friends and family. I have way too much stuff so it makes sense to either sell or giveaway built-up. One issue I have is that I have a lot of 60% boards and don’t feel like they’re a good match for giving away since many won’t want to jump into layers, etc. I have a Bauer Lite that will probably work but not much else.
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MT3 WoB / BoW are definitely on my short-list of considerations!
@ClappingCactus - thanks for the recommendation, I’ll check that out. I have pretty basic HTML & CSS knowledge and that’s about it, so it would be nice to have a CMS that’s not so dependent on an outside platform.
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If you still need this, do you just want the external measurements of a base kit container from the outside with no sleeve? I assume the two layers are the same height, but I can check…
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Even with the sleeve would be good. Just trying to get external dimensions on the notion that if there’s anything remotely like a “standard” size for stashing caps on a shelf or in a drawer, it would be their boxes.
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So I measured the outside of my GMK Rouge R2 that came in from Apos (not Kono) with a Stanley measuring tape, and it’s 12.5" (317.5mm) x 9.3125" (236.5375mm) x 1.4375" (36.5125mm). But the inside part that holds the caps is smaller. These aren’t the best pics, but you can kind see what part of the box you want to use to measure.
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Thanks! I’ll probably design something close to 12”x9”x”However much I need to clear the top of a big SA or MT3 cap.”
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Yeah, I debated how specific to be in my measurement report lol…the JTK max trays close clearing SA and MT3 caps supposedly. I can only report from experience that SA works - my MT3 are in their OG boxes. The first result I found on the measurement is 'approximately 16.5" * 10.25" * 1" ’ (from JTK Max Tray on ThocKeys) if that helps!
EDIT: KeyGem has some good measurements on the height for each type of JTK tray too: JTK Storage Tray .