Thinking of the Command 65 but 200+ for plastic feels off…
I mounted mine without the silicone dampener. I put poron gaskets on the plate. It works just fine.
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I’ve decided that a tented ergo is probably perfect for me. I’ve been typing on my alice boards a lot lately with my hands tilted more and it feels great. It’s just a bit of a reach to the middle without tenting.
Now… you may think I’m saying that I will be buying the type-k. But… hear me out… I’m dumb and I’ll just chance extras. Can’t be spending $800 on a MX keyboard in this economy 
Unless I happen into a pile of cash. You never know!
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You guys sucked me into switch modding… I just ordered 70 Kailh Deep Sea Pro Whale switches which I intend to spring swap.
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One of us! One of us!
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Broke down & grabbed a Frog 8K! Kept coming back & looking at it after @pixelpusher ordered one, finally I figured I better grab one since I like it so much. Couldn’t find any info as to if this is a one off run Geon did, or if he plans on continually restocking these like the Frog TKL. Although it’s such a unique layout I can see this being a one off run, so I wasn’t chancing missing out on it LOL!
Also gonna give a hotswap PCB on this build a chance for a change, since it only comes with a aluminum full plate. Then I’m hoping using the softest 50A tadpoles will offset the stiffness of the full plate. Definitely pump for this board, fingers crossed the shipping is fast enough to get it to on sat. That way I can build it over the weekend!
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Wow. Their 8K vs 1KHz gameplay demo video is darn convincing.
I ordered a F12 winkey a few months back, very nice board: I constantly switch between it and my Manta75 in my workplace.
I have it assembled with the aluminium plate and the same 50A tadpole as you.
The soft tadpoles gives a bit of bounce that is nice to experience.
The leaves on the plate are not super effective to give any bounce as some leaves length are very short and close to a mounting point.
Keep in mind that, as there is no daughterboard (usb soldered on the PCB), the amount of flex and bounce must somewhat be contained in order for the USB connector to not collide with the case. And the board is also well designed to prevent that as the plate leaves makes contact with the bottom case before it can happen.
I also have one of the gorgeous hotswap PCB designed by Gondolindrim 
A bit of info on my current hobby work I am currently designing an optical PCB for the Frog F12 board.
This design is based on the common work we made with Gondolindrim at the time.
Our master Gondolindrim found a solution to fix the latency problem on optical switches that is I think totally new and very clever, not needing to pump a huge amount of current to fix it.
This is the technique I am trying to implement in this PCB, if it works you’ll have to praise our god Gondo
For the moment this is just a personal project, but if it proves to work and a few people are interested to try optical technology on their F12 Frog, I may have a few units left for you to play with (I usually order PCBs in quantity of 5).
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And I didn’t see that the 8K was a completely different beast … sorry for the out of topic post 
Very nice board BTW.
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Actually just a out all thay advice should apply to the 8k too. As im pretty sure its just a frog with more cutout of the top case by the arrows. From the sounds of it using the 50a tadpoles will be the ticket for me. I dont want huge flex on it cause of the PCB having the USB come directly off it like you said. So between the soft tadpoles & little bit of flex the leaf springs give im hopeful it’ll end up just right!
Also im gonna have to keep an eye on the optical switch PCB for the Frog TKL. I was going back & forth between the 8k & TKL last night. I do plan on picking up a Frog TKL sooner than later & being able to use optical switches with it would make it a must buy for me!
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Yes most of what I said applies to the 8K, even more for the 8K plate as the mount is much more top mount traditional: the leaves are different and very short (and of the same size), just to prevent having a hash bottom out but no more than that.
I guess he tadpole softness will play a more important role for this plate than on the Frog TKL plate.
Also im gonna have to keep an eye on the optical switch PCB for the Frog TKL
Our conversation gave me an idea
I could have both TKL and 8K compatibility for my optical PCB 
Another info for the 8K, the PCB sold with it is made by a known community member called Zykrah.
The PCB is called Fuyu and is fully open source under a very permissive licence, the github page is here:
I love when people open source their stuff like that (Gondolidrim also open sourced it’s Apollo design used on the Frog TKL).
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Yeah. Pairing 8K with optical PCB makes a lot of sense.
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Gateron Beer switches - now I just need to get some Tsingtao to transfer one of the labels to a jar 
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Just saw this about the KBD67L shenanigans - I keep a stock of KBD67 Lite parts, and I’m pretty sure I have one of those middle silicone bits if you still need it.
I really do wish they’d keep making small runs of those parts - it’s a great platform and there are lots of builds out there that will eventually need some of those bits.
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So who’s thinkin’ about that type K?
The heart says maybe, but the wallet says no
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Maybe I should start an Onlyfans? Onlykeebs?
I could build whatever board and switches you want and do a 10 min typing sample for money?
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My heart says yes but my wallet says absolutely fucking not
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I’d save the money for whatever it is that TGR is working on. Jane V3 or whatever.
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aka just “saving” since you’ll likely not win the TGR raffle
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Yeah that’s my situation with the Type-K too. I’d really love to grab one but it’s just a little to expensive for my blood right now. I actually ordered the Geon Frog 8K to try to keep me from having major FOMO over the Type-K…
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