Got an open-box RK96 with a missing USB dongle but otherwise new. It was $26 on Amazon, shipped and after taxes, but I just can’t figure out what I’ll use it for. It’s not snobbery; frankly, I only own modded low-end pre-builts and fully homemade DIY boards. I just already have two 1800’s and can’t for the life of me figure out why I need a third. Probably going to send it back.
My 10yo daughter has her own RK96 ($35 for that one, complete with dongle), and I have tried – oh how I’ve tried – to get her to let me replace the remaining stock keycaps with the rest of the XDA Pokemon set I got her, but according to her, “I like the design I came up up with.” Proud of that girl.
Thanks. This is actually my first GMK set, so I don’t have any comparisons. When I press one end of the spacebar down on a flat surface, the other side is about 1.5mm off the surface. I only have one keyboard with a 7u spacebar and it’s possible it will be fine once mounted on a board, so not the end of the world, just a little surprised to see it.
Yay. Mail day but my “gaming chair” just broke so i need to replace it. You win some, you lose some.
Pintobro bubble powder. Made by huano and seems to have the usual POM stem, nylon bottom PC top combo. 37g springs, which feels very light but they have quite a decent amount of factory lube so they are also smooth and don’t ping. Not a lot of wobble either. Huano good.
New-new Aifei mold keycaps. These still have the smooth texture from their “Icon” line of keycaps, but the molds themselves are about 1.5mm thick now, instead of the “stepped” kind of thinner interior of the previous lines. So that should make a decent difference in sound.
Not keeb related, but 1/64 aftermarket “ganador”-style mirrors from puff studio.
got crpx a few days ago. really liking it! there’s a few weird things about it but it’s nice to have another uniform pbt profile, by a manu that actually excels in material quality and dyesub.
Alright, i tried to take some. Here’s a comparison between Capturer WoB, Aifei Icon WoB, the new Aifei BoG, and PBTFans Purpolch. They are quite thick now with the new molds, but they also seem to be prone to defects, as you will see later.
And here some more Photos of them to show the Legends and some defects like those weird milky ghosting effects. It’s interesting that they are still using the older “stepped”-style Doubleshot technique for some keycaps.
Got my MGA in yesterday! Haven’t had a chance to build it up yet, but might get into that later today. It’s a pretty basic setup, just a plain alum case no weights or embellishments, with basic top mounting for the plate/PCB. I don’t think I could recommend this at it’s normal price, but for under $100 it’s an absolute steal. Thankfully I had a couple Hiney FR4 3/4 Alice plates laying around (I had originally bought them for the Rukia… ). Other than being USB mini, the PCB it came with is pretty slick. It supports a few different layout options, but what I really like is the fact it has solder pads on all the switch spots. The holes are quite wide to fit the sockets, but does give you the ability to solder the switches if something happens to a HS socket. Will report back about how the typing experience is on it after I get it built.
Not in the mail, but I bought the Scooby Doo Mystery Mansion Lego set that someone was selling for a really good price. I recently had bought the Mystery Machine set and wanted to get both Velma and Daphne to complete the gang, and this happened to show up on FB Marketplace brand new.
Both sets have long been discontinued, so cost me a bit, but really wanted them. For some reason they never put all the figures in one set, so this was the way.
My daughter and I got really into Scooby-Doo for a hot minute. It was Scooby-Doo! Mystery Incorporated, which was really enjoyable for the both of us. I looked at these sets as well and they are so cool! However as much as we both liked them, I wasn’t interested in paying the after market prices for discontinued Lego sets. This was my first realization at how good investing in Lego can actually be if you have the space.
Following up on this. I finally got some calipers on the switches to figure out what is going on.
I recently got a set of TTC Neptune switches and found that the tops have issues with GMK. I noticed that R3 didn’t have a loud clack on bottom-out like the rest of the rows. Long story short, it’s actually the SIDE of the tops that is making contact.
I did the paper test to see if it got caught and was surprised to see that the I didn’t have any issues pulling a small piece of paper out from between the depressed keycap and switch top. I tried it on both the top and bottom edge. But then I tried the edges… that was it!
I cannot find any Cherry spec sheets that show what this top number should be. But it appears that anything much over 11.8mm will probably collide with GMK R3 keycaps.
I was surprised to see Neptune switches listed at #4 on the scorecard by @ThereminGoat
I would caution anyone who is picky and planning to use these with GMK caps. They will suffer in terms of even sound. R3 will sound more muted than the rest of your switches simply because the stem isn’t making contact with the bottom of the housing. Instead, the keycap is making contact with the top of the switch housing. If you’ve already built with these, you could use different keycaps or use the switch washers/shims on R3.
Also, I noticed inconsistencies in the size of that top portion while testing. I was trying to demonstrate to my wife and noticed the switch had no issue… I measured the top and it was 11.67mm. So some of the Neptune switches are wider than others at the top. In a batch of 30, I found two that were approximately 11.67mm and 28 that were between 11.86 and 11.92mm. Maybe if you had some calipers you could weed out the thinner ones and keep them for R3?
Ignore the GPU since I went to Microcenter and picked that up. I got my massive EKWB and smaller Titanrig order from their sales. As well as 8 3 packs of fans and an HX1500i psu. What’s worse is I have like 3 more boxes with water cooling parts coming in… I think I need a bigger corner for all this
Managed to get a full set of those Keycaps that were also used on the Finalkey/Cidoo keyboards a while ago. They are similar to the Domikey and PBTFans kind of half-transparent style. 1.4-1.5mm thick and the Legends aren’t too bad. I’ve seen worse.
Also got a set of JC Studio 3000-Sat. JC Studio really makes some neat keycap sets. I already have the Desko set from them and i will probably get 4 or 5 more from them. It’s like heaven for vintage keyboard enjoyers.
SA Retro was delivered today. Very impressed with the packaging - each kit is shrink wrapped, and then all the kits are put in a small, compact box. The issue now is which board to put it on
more! 
). Other than being USB mini, the PCB it came with is pretty slick. It supports a few different layout options, but what I really like is the fact it has solder pads on all the switch spots. The holes are quite wide to fit the sockets, but does give you the ability to solder the switches if something happens to a HS socket. Will report back about how the typing experience is on it after I get it built.
very nice board
