So, both my M60 a and my HS60 have an led that just stays blue. Both in different spots. Anyone else have this issue? I updated to the latest version of via but no help.
On the underglow LEDs or in switch LEDs? I finally swapped my E6.5 over to VIA today & the underglow is working just like it did when I had it programed through QMK configurator. I did not install any in switch LEDs on this, nor does the PCB have SMD switch LEDs so I can’t speak to the issue if it’s those you are talking about.
That is odd that it would happen on two of your boards at once. Have you tried flashing one of them back to just QMK programmed? I think most likely you are right & the red portion is burnt out on them, but I’d give that a shot just to make sure before taking them apart & replacing the LEDs.
Edit: So I just realized they are both HS PCBS (DUH Rob… HS60 LOL!) that use those super low pro SMD RGB LEDs for in switch lighting. Not sure how hard or easy they would be to replace. but they are pretty hard to find. On a quick search all I could come up with is the most likely type of LED module you’ll need, a 0404 SMD RGB LED, but couldn’t find anywhere that sells them by the piece. Here are some links to get you started if you decided to give replacing them a go. https://www.mouser.com/new/lumex/lumexrgb0404/ https://www.sunledusa.com/productSeries.aspx?ser=XZxxxxxx150W
Awesome idea & news! Definitely worth a shot on the HS60 since it worked on the M-60A! Occam’s razor in effect right there, I didn’t even think to recommend trying to re-flow them.
Oof, I was going to suggest adding more solder. It sounds like the assembly house went light on the solder and maybe the stress from typing on the board is breaking the solder joint.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking. Those LEDs are so small & have even smaller solder points that just the flex for typing is most likely enough to start knocking solder joints out. That is one of the reasons I have yet to get a HS PCB, many more failure points than a regular one.
Make sure your HS PCB is one that’s well reviewed - my KBD6x rev 1 has the C key’s socket soldering so iffy that it’s falling out, but it’s easily fixed with some good old foam. The 6x rev 2 has no such issue, but it’s still on par with DZ60 in quality, so I’d recommend trying an Instant60 (like I’m probably going to when I rebuild my wood case board) or a 1UP60 HSE (god thats a mouthful)