Spent an unhealthy amount of time trying to make my own qwiic cables over the last couple of days. 1.0mm pitch too small for me to reliably crimp with the tool i had. 2.0mm pitch worked well. I don’t have a good justification for going through all that effort to get the cables to have standard USB colors…
Gave in and purchased a boatload of cables that were around $0.15 each from AliExpress that I can repin.
Using engineer pa-09 and silicone 30 guage wire
@Rico was there a particular tool you used for your silicone qwiic cables?
I also have the engineer 09 and could crimp 30gauge wire with it, but I agree that it is not a simple procedure at first: I wasted a lot of cables and crimps before having a set of cable working.
My first trick is to unwire a good length of the cable so that it pokes out of the crimp when inserted, and I bend it so that the cable does not move out of the crimp (you later cut the cable excess with flush cutters).
This makes the process a lot easier.
If the crimp is deformed after the process I flatten it gently by pressing it with the flat part of the engineer tool, otherwise inserting them in the connector can destroy this one.
I made a new assembly, with durock mamba switches.
At the same time, I tested and Wukue a silicone lubrication station.
Comfortable. The lower case holds well, and you can put pressure on it when you put the upper case on top, there are a lot of compartments, I especially like the stem compartment, I always stick them in, and then I just take them out with a pencil.
The dd switch has a very easy smooth ride. BUT. They are not all smooth, I even saw a scratch inside on the bottom of the body when I zoomed in. This is such a speedy production quality. Out of about 70 pieces, I have 7+ with quirks. I decided this by putting all the strange switches in arrows or shifts. I also noticed that assemblies where there is a strong flex, then the DD is louder and lighter. too light for me. But the assembly where the flex is small and the pbt keycaps, then it’s really good there. I like it better.
Today I tried lubing some switches with 205g0, and wow this stuff is thick.
When handling it doesn’t look thicker than 3204, I was under the impression I was being conservative with my lube appliance when I used 3204 and it turned out nice.
So I tried the same with the 205g0 and oh boy, took a Gateron Cap V2 switch from clacky and loud to very low pitched and muted, and there’s a nice drag feeling.
The Baldr has this niffy approach for an o-ring mount. It made for a huge difference in feel, but not so much sound. The standoffs are ever so shorter than the o-rings so the PCB gets compressed onto them per usual, but without running the risk of the keycaps sitting too high or pesky USB-C port clearance.
This is genius! I already have some lubed Gateron Silent Browns that were donated by someone.
I assume the springs and stems are already lubed, so all I have to do is deposit them into some Bobagum housings. Which are now available on AliExpress.
Guess I’ll have to custom order some clear slot tops, though.
Stem has an unusual structure.
The body is slightly wobbly. We need thin films.
Initially it is lubricated at the factory, very good. Most won’t even do anything.
But I re-greased.
It makes the sound quieter. Quieter upstroke. I feel so much better.
Somewhere here a year and a half ago, there was my post. Where did I lubricate them.)
Wukue switches I bought everything. But except for the silents. I don’t like silents, not mine. There are several, purely collection. But use no no no. I need the sounds of crackling and ringing)
