I use lead solder (the 63/37 stuff that melts fairly low). I keep the iron around 320c.
Add small amount of solder to one pad, grab and place led, reheat pad while sliding the led into the solder to hold in place.
Then I solder the other pads, alternating sides to keep heat as low as I can. This part can be tricky without a good clean soldering tip. I find I have to clean the tip on a brass sponge after every one of these joints. The small tip on my iron likes to oxidize very quickly. I also have to tin the tip a few times as well.
I tried a few LEDs adding flux and that helped too. But then you have to clean it.
So, flux if you wanna go a bit faster and clean up afterwards, or clean sharp tip for more methodical work.
Sometimes on these little joints the solder wants to travel up the tip instead of melt to the board. I think this is from lack of good contact/heat between the iron, PCB, and the component. If that happens I either wiggle the iron or carefully slide it back and forth on the joint to help transfer the heat better.
I’m loving these stabilizers so far, more than I thought I would. I did not love these silicone socks, though - they made sticky kissing noises with the greased stems, no thank you
Oh, I know - ha - with what I had on-hand that was the only way I knew to get adhesion between the pads; I have nerve damage in my hands that complicates precise movement, and the only iron I currently have is one with a broad, not at all sharp tip; comparable in size to that entire component. This experience makes me want to add a sharp tip to my toolbox just in case.
Looking at guides, though, I might have had an easier time if I’d used more solder when priming the pads. I was afraid of over-doing it but it looks like I could have been plenty more generous with it:
I had taken apart my Cypher R4 and was going to put it up for sale after buying the Phidias–but that GB got cancelled.
Then I bought Wasabi Latin alphas which gave me enough keycaps for another build since I bought all the Wasabi kits.
So I figured I’d try to rebuild this thing. I tried to fix the ping and hollowness of the Cypher this time around with some double layer force break and polyfill–and I think it sounds way better than it did before without any modding.
I received the original order, which is the RAMA M6-C DUALSHOT, and I’m positively surprised. Unlike the (more expensive) HIBI MIA, the M6-C comes with the signature branded RAMA screws and a tool, so you don’t have to look for one first, and are able to enjoy the build right out of the box. In addition, it also comes with a RAMA branded USB A-to-C cable, as well as a … SIM card opener? I assume it is used for pressing something – a reset button? – next to the port.
Long story short, it is a bit sad that a boutique studio like RAMA – which, as a company, have done an incredible job with the products they did deliver, regardless of the founder’s mistakes, mismanagement and attitude – is being outlived by a (excuse my french) copycat that appears to be charging a premium, yet not delivering on the details and the experience. And yes, maybe this take should have gone into the unpopular opinions thread, but then again, I’m a fan of RAMA’s products, who would have been more than happy to stumble upon a company continuing their legacy with a similar love for detail.
Built my Neo Ergo tonight! Build process was pretty straight forward, I am a big fan of the POGO connectors instead of a JST or ribbon cable. Although the male end of the POGO connector on the PCBs has to be accounted for on the hotswap PCBs. I just let it hang over the edge of the table I was building on so all the hotswap sockets were properly supported from below & I didn’t put any unnecessary stress on the PCBs. The only other issue I had was you need to upload the JSON file to VIA for it to be recognized, but that is stated in the build guide with a link to the JSON file.
I went with HMX Macchiatos & TX AP clip in stabs with only the foam under the PCB to prevent shorting on this build. So far so good, sounds really nice (a little on the clacky side but I was expecting that with the Macchiatos) & feels really good. It’s actually a fairly stiff typing feel for a gasket mounted board, but still has some give & softness to it. The tenting isn’t messing my typing flow up at all, will have to put it through more use before I know if it’s something that is actually better ergonomically for me. Overall I am very happy with this board so far!
That might be very well true, but design != execution. It shows that it’s not about a single person but rather a collective that works together to build great things.
It’s bothering me that I can’t figure out what brand of monitor you have, my brain is telling me it is an AOC monitor but im definitely wrong. Also nice Tai-hao keycap.
Thanks, the keycap was included in the “Sunshine” set. Didn’t realize there was a second layer years later
(If you’re wondering the full keycap set is on one of my other keyboards)
I have Macchiatos in mine too, lol. I really dig the board. The tenting didn’t mess me up either. I did have to use the plate and case foams in mine because I thought it sounded too hollow around the top row, especially the outside edge like the back space. It’s no big deal though.
Are you using a full backspace? I have mine split so I’m not hitting the keys on the top row edges all that often. I do agree it does sound a bit hollow there, but not so bad I’d call it an issue. Also PBT seems to help with that a bit too. I threw MTNU Dolch on mine today & it tightened the sound up to my liking a good bit more than with ABS on it.
But hey, if it works, it works.
This experience makes me want to add a sharp tip to my toolbox just in case.
