I have never had an issue typing on MDA, I used it on a Zlant for several months. OSA feels like it has a smaller surface area than MDA and there is very little difference in row height compared to MDA. MDA has an aggressively low R3.
Usually I would compensate for this by adding large, rubber feet in the rear to increase the angle, which would artificially create a difference in row height, but I do not want to stick feet on a quality keyboard.
Cross-posting a family shot of my K-Type (what I was using for working) and CTRL (what I’m using now that I’ve replaced its case and put in some case foam) from over here:
These both have Zandas in them, although the K-Type has Zandas made with Clear GSUS housings and the CTRL has Zandas made with YOK Mint Panda housings (having tested them side-by-side on other setups before they are like 99% similar in terms of feel and maybe a bit less in terms of sound). Makes for a nice way to evaluate the difference case foam makes, though!
(please excuse the mess of my desk)
YAS62 with MDA Big Bone on tealio x vint black stems, 62g springs, lubed. Ahhhhmazing. Polar opposite of my clickies. Wife and kid say it’s “too quiet” 
I always love me some Big Bone, but together with that case finish and layout it’s looking pretty darn next-level. Bet it sounds delicious, too…
I would say “endgame material” but at this point in my keyboard journey I think I know better XD
I hate everything and everyone after building this. But, by God, it’s done.
Modern M0110, blue SKCM Alps, DCS Alps Yuri.
New to me HHKB Pro 2 I got from someone on MechMarket a few months ago, along with my Logitech MX Vertical. Overall a very comfortable pair of peripherals. 
Stock HHKB Pro 2, lubed and silenced using Deskeys silencing rings #3.
I adore my Mx Vertical! Completely eliminated any wrist pain and numbness after switching to it. Using pretty much the same exact setup as you just with the pro hybrid
Sorry if you’ve already gone into this, but what problems did you encounter with the build?
I always start with the stabilized keys to make sure they are good. Soldered and desoldered 3 times before figuring out the problem was the Alps Throwback caps I trying to use. Space bar and Return key were too out of spec to work. Sluggish and non-returning stabilizer action is the worst. Shrinking led to the stabilizer stems to be almost 2mm too close together.
I figured that one out eventually but then I couldn’t figure out why the backspace didn’t sound right. Turns out it was a plate issue.
I had discovered early in that the 3m PC plate didn’t have relief cuts in the correct position for the some of the stabilizer wires. The plate was making contact with the stabilizer housing and not allowing proper alignment, leading to the top right edge of the plate being too far away from the PCB.
Dremel fixed that. And all was good. Also took care of a little extra piece of plastic by the pipe key that was in the way of inserting a switch.
Then I built it out. Tricky in places like stepped caps, function key, and enter because the plate cutouts are big (for instance, allowing ISO enter). You really just have to solder the switch out of alignment and then heat it from the back later while getting it in the right position with a spare hand.
When I was putting the caps on, I decided to swap the Alt key out with a novelty cap. Welp I forgot how alps stems can break easily and tried pulling it off by hand. Broke right off. Rip. I was able to get the stem out of the switch without much hassle, so that’s good.
Also, for some reason qmk toolbox was giving me an error when I tried to flash my layout on the first several attempts. Then it just magically worked. Not sure what that was about.
I will say this, the long wait (over 2 years) in this group buy was mainly for the case finish. And I will say that the case is lovely, and the finish is pretty top notch. I suppose that most of my troubles would have been nonexistent if I would have built an MX Board.
So nice!
How do you like it?
I like it quite a lot. It feels great with the blue alps and nice keycaps. I will say that the sound suffers from the hefty metal case. Nothing beats a big hollow plastic case for resonating alps switches.
The finish feels better than any other of the 3 cerakote boards I own. Very smooth to the touch.
You can finally mark that one off your “waiting for” list
Blue SKCM Alps with DCS ALps Yuri is 
Gotta say, it’s pretty messy atm, but I’m currently using my freshly built Rama U80-A Moon with Keebwerks Tacit Switches, r2 C3 Stabs and SPs SA Troubled Minds Keycaps.
Although this board for me currently is in a “waiting phase” (which will probably pretty long) for Oblotzkys GMK Boneyard Keycaps, which will absolutely perfect this board for me.
Have a great day:grinning:
I’ll probably never be able to get these 
. I guess I’ll make do with the GMK Mecha-01
My current WFH setup.
I’ve got the HHKB Pro Hybrid, I rotate between this and the Pro2.
Swapped the black on black caps for the lighter caps. Also lubed & added silencing rings.
