Control on A! And shift on Z, alt on X, tab as a combo on S&D, and and and
2 Likes
Mmmm I love that negative pretravel
Same!!!
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Not going to lie – all I see is a cow with udders.
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- Heavy-6 thanks @norbauer
- FC660C silent 45g
- Lubed 3204
- Hasu Compatible USB-C controller GitHub - davek184/fc660c-controller: Custom FC660C controller with USB-C based on hasu's design
- RBG following this guide Adding RGB to FC660C with HASU controller some deviations:
- Connected RGB strip using solid coper wires.
- After trying every permeation of LED placement decided to attach to the PCB
- Added a layer of painters tape under the white electrical tape to cut down on tape residue
- Used wax paper to diffuse the LEDs
Additional Photos and videos: https://imgur.com/a/vJHEJOK
Thanks @rooski15 @Extra_Fox
20 Likes
I greedily retain my non-LED version of your control board for another board (any day now Ingot66) that won’t allow me to add the ArrGeeBees.
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I don’t know why but I really like the look of plancks with “blockers” (are they just F10 keycaps?). It’s like the best of two worlds: you get to create interesting key layouts, but all while keeping the simply, tiny-rectangle look. I love it.
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Changed up the LED lighting on the Realforce R2. I increased the LED density, but mounted them inset deeply from the outer perimeter. This gives it the look of glowing diffuse lighting which I really like.
I also added some Deskey Sliders to the arrow cluster so I could mount the ceramic keycaps.
24 Likes
I like it too! Keeping the classic keyboard rectangle just looks right. They’re actually not F10s, they’re these!
I need to learn to take more compelling pictures, but in the meantime, it’s the top view with my new wood and resin spacebar.
Acquired here: https://www.keysculptnerd.com/. Tim, the owner, is super nice to work with and very communicative. I would definitely do business with him again.
15 Likes
Not technically my desk but someone kept trying to reach for a keyboard while working so I figured she could use one of her own. Thus, this has been sacrificed to toy-dom (aka I removed the USB cable) and it’s become one of her favorite things to slap.
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Hi all, here’s my new silent combo:
The keeb is my first build, a IK75 with Outemu Silent White and some other little things, here’s the thread: New SILENT build from Keychron K2v1 - #27 by m4dbra1n
The mouse, from Amazon, is a MX-Master inspired’s clone (iClever) but with silent switches and Type-C recharge, which is not bad.
The keeb is in substitution of a Keychron K2 with Gateron Red, cause I need a little more silence WFH and in office too, to not be hated too much by my colleagues XD
See ya!
7 Likes
Can you get shots more centered and where your figurine isn’t in the way? What are the specs of the board?
holy crap I love this so much. I might just replicate it- Can you link me to the parts? or maybe where I can find caps that fit this layout?
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Bob Ross mat - clean desk - happy desk
The tactile-mode Clickiez in this Portico aren’t mellow, but the deskmat sure is.
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Look at all them happy trees!
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Hey, thanks! It’s definitely the board I use the most but… it’s a bit of a wild mashup of parts. I’ll go through them;
- Case - Hubris by Rainkeebs. It was for sale on P3Dstore recently, but is currently sold out. If you’re adamant then I’m sure you could eventually find a seller on the 40% discord buy/sell/trade. You will need to have a custom plate cut for the ortho PCB (link below). Alternatively you could have one made from whatever material suits you via this. It’s a fantastic case, great typing feel/sound and solid.
- PCB - Minibaen V2, again by Rain. There was only one GB for these, but luckily it’s open-source. The PCB files as well as those for the plate are available here. The plate is the “Coriander” variant. The PCB can be made with all parts but the microcontroller. Those are easily found on AliExpress, but of course you’ll have to solder it yourself. (If you’d rather skip this step and don’t need an ortholinear layout, just buy any available minivan compatible PCB and have a staggered coriander plate cut by P3D).
- Switches - Any Cherry compatible will work with the above, mine change frequently because I used millmax sockets
- Caps - This part is where you’ll run into problems, lol. The alphas are from GMK godspeed, the right spacebars are GMK OG Spacekeys R1 (R2, here, had both CC and N9 colors included if you’re heading to the aftermarket), the left spacebars are the GMK N9 add-on kit, the R/G/Y caps are from GMK Mondrian (circa 2016, nearly impossible to find nowadays), and the blockers are from Pimp My Keyboard. Yeah… not sure what to tell you other than it might be easier (on your sanity and wallet) to use different but similar keysets.
As a final note, this page may also be of help. Best of luck 
3 Likes