What did you learn today?

TIL that recently manufactured (if not all) KS-3X1 (“milky yellow”) switches have the “compatibility curve” that makes them friendly with GMK in either standard mounting direction.

You’d think Gateron would shout to the heavens about this feature, but apparently, it was rolled-out unceremoniously some time ago.

Add that to the list of other Gaterons that have this feature;

  • Cap V2s
  • Newer Inks
  • Vermilion Birds
  • Azure Dragons
  • Oil Kings (where I first noticed this feature)
  • Probably a bunch more I’m not yet aware of
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Proof that one of the main reasons the most recent generation of HHKBs are better is runoff lube on the spacebar dome which means they lube the spacebar slider for better sound/performance

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Just checked a few:

  • Caps V1 - Has new curve
  • Gateron X - Has new curve
  • Hippo - No curve, old mold
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TIL that Moyu Blacks (ran on Dorp as Dark Jades) are expensive! Like Zeal flagship expensive.

Some quick notes on those:

  • PBT housing; like a rock

  • Sharp, punchy, a bit harsh

  • Long pole / short travel

  • Ultra tactile; makes Royals seem quaint

  • Thought stem would be amazing in all kinds of housings; so far I’ve found one worth doing, and only if you already have the parts and are bored with their stock config (Kono Midnight w/ this stem)

  • Housing is great for Gazzew silent stems, and generally has wider franken potential than the stem; PBT is fairly unique in the space at the moment

They’re pretty neat but I dunno if they’re ~$1.30 each neat. I’m guessing PBT is a lot harder to make into a good housing.

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Yes, a PBT top is very intriguing. Wonder what makes them so expensive as well :thinking:

Livingspeedbump is not only GMKAndy but he is the CEO of GMK

Which is also strange to me b/c I’ve followed him on Instagram for a long time. The only thing I knew was that he seemed to be getting more and more into vintage synthesizers

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Today, I learned that my stove’s “medium” is way too hot to make a roux without burning it. Also, silicone barmats are not heatproof enough to set a pot of searing hot oil down on while you try to figure out wtf to do with it.

And now I have to get a new dutch oven in the next couple of days if I want to have gumbo for Mardi Gras :worried:

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Wait, why do you need a new one?

It really is a bad news/ good news when you figure out a proper heat situation on the cooktop though. It’ll be perfect next time :+1:

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I might not, but the bottom of it is covered in melted plastic for the time being

I would bet a green scotch pad will scrape it off with enough elbow grease. If not, could you butane torch it off?

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Yeah, I left it out on the porch for a few hours and thankfully most of the melted rubber just peeled off. There are some spots where it’s attached but I think I’ll be able to scrub it out.

In a past life I spent three years paying the bills by washing dishes in the food mines. Imma say that pot is totally salvageable.

That looks like enameled cast iron to me; as far as cookware goes it’s nearly immortal. The coating will eventually wear out but the pot underneath will endure in the archaeological record as long as it’s not exposed to consistent moisture for like a hundred years - and unlike ptfe-coated and/or aluminum cookware, the enamel coating breaking down only affects aesthetics and ease of cleaning.

Say all that to say; @Laughmaster That Dutch oven will put up with a lot more than that melted plastic will. A green pad or even some steel wool and some patience should take care of it. With steel wool patience goes farther than force; a hundred light brushes will clean a delicate plate, but two or three hard ones can damage things and leave the crud behind. (Not so much iron or steel though, they’re all but bulletproof; go to town if you feel like it, just mind any coatings.)

You could probably use a torch but it might leave some scorched plastic stains on the metal, and if it’s really hot it could be too much for the enamel.

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If there’s one use I’ve found for Moyu Blacks, it’s for concealing ticking stab sounds that you can’t seem to, or are too lazy to fix. I have a lot of Moyu blacks (I got ultra curious about the PBT housing), and typically use them when I’m not in the mood to try and troubleshoot the ticking. I love the lower pitched smacking clack sound they produce for space bars (in general).

Anyways, I suspect the high price might have something to do with PBT warpage, and a fairly high level of QC. I’m not sure how much micro-warping you can tolerate for switches, but I suspect they didn’t want to put out a dud so they just rolled with the material and increased the price to accommodate the inevitable qc fails that would come about.

Lastly, there’s a spiritual successor to the Moyu Blacks called the “Designer Studio” White Jades by JWK. However, it’s your typical PC top, Nylon bottom switch with the same aggressive tactility Moyu Black lovers crave. It’s pricey, but nowhere near as pricey as Moyu Blacks. I’d buy some, but I really don’t know if I’d put Moyu-like switches into anything that doesn’t have a stab.

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My wife found it in a shoe.

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Did she have a bounce in her step?

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…ducky one3’s internal is compatible with their one2 case.

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TIL that Zfrontier CN has a treasure trove of great cat gifs (well… .webp’s if we’re being pedantic). Now I want these to be a hobby standard so I can just use cat gifs to react on ALL the ICs and GBs

Cat scratchssasinate
That feeling when Windows doesn’t recognize my keeb.

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The prodigal son has returned, after the lavish shoe life chewed him up and spat him out.

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She broke it in for you :joy:

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Same here. I live in Maine and it’s crickets for e-waste/recycling around here, sadly.