I’m not an expert but I don’t quite understand that answer. CNC is computer numerical control. CAD (computer aided design) software is used to instruct the CNC machine. Design changes are introduced by changing the specifications via CAD. I’m not suggesting this is superficial, but it’s not like having to get a new machine for each design as suggested by that response. At least that’s what I had understood when I read it. Maybe I got that wrong.
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I spoke to a designer friend who has a CNC. He confirmed that machine grade polycarbonate is more expensive than 6061 aluminium and that with plastic, machine time is increased because it has to run slower to prevent heat build up that could damaged the polycarbonate. Also aluminum is more forgiving than plastics which chip easily if the tools are not sharp.
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Technically and pedantically, CAD does the design work, but CAM (computer aided manufacturing) software is where you create and generate the tool paths necessary to drive the CNC tools.
For what it’s worth, everything I’ve heard about machining Polycarbonate is that it’s not easy, and even harder when quality standards are high. While I think you could use regular machining tools to work with the material, I know that some tool manufacturers have lines specifically designed for working with the material ( Plastics and composites multi-processing machines - Biesse).
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In my experience (18 years of CNC machining) the hardest part for Polycarbonate is getting a completely clear and unfrosted finish on machined surfaces. Lots of times to do that consistently you almost need to go to PCD(poly crystalline diamond) tooling which is expensive, but does not really apply to any drilling just milling. Now, if you plan on it being a frosted finish its no longer a problem. 
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Where I worked before they made thick, movable shelves in PC and chose a frosted finish. I know there was a good bit of time in post processing just to make sure the frosted finish was consistent. The shelves were a key product feature so it was essential they looked the part.
Anyway, it just goes to show that even if PC was cheaper than Aluminum as a raw material, I bet it would still cost more in the end just due to specialty tooling and post processing.
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Not to add confusion, but to slightly change the subject, who here has experience dyeing polycarbonate?
I have a particular project on my workbench that uses a solid poly case. The research I’ve done so far recommends using synthetic dye (like RIT DyeMore) and near boiling water. Another method I’ve read about uses alcohol or acetone mixed with the same type of dye and no heat. What are some thoughts on this? I certainly do not want to disfigure, damage or otherwise render this case unusable because I don’t think it can be replaced at this point.
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For any of y’all who have tried it; is the GMK Red Samurai overpriced? I mean, it’s a 100 bucks, and even though that is clearly not the most expensive option, I don’t want to waste my money. For that price I kind of want it to be like double-shot PBT or something, but it is ABS, so please tell me if I’ll waste my money or not?
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GMK is well worth it’s price IMO. It is ABS & will shine eventually, but as far colors & kerning (spacing & legibility of the legends on the key) goes GMK is the best in the game. That’s why they can charge so much TBH.
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Agreed with Rob - excepting the rare manufacturing defect, of which I’ve only seen one in person, GMK caps are made to an excellent standard of quality.
They do all shine eventually, though - and how quickly that happens depends on a few things, mostly:
- How much you type
- How you type
- How oily (or not) your skin is
- Hygiene
Use amount seems pretty obvious; the more you use something the more it wears.
Typing style matters too, though. My space bars always shine quickly because when I strike them, I’m actually rubbing my thumb sideways. If I’d learned to push straight down, it likely wouldn’t happen so quickly. I also tend to rest my left hand on WASD and fidget a bit in the process, so even though I don’t actually use WASD more than other letters (and I hardly play FPS games anymore), my keys around that area shine up more quickly than the rest.
It’s more the presence of oil than simple friction from your skin that does most of the work shining the keys. I have naturally oily skin - so unless I’m constantly removing my natural defense against drying out, my ABS keys all shine relatively quickly if I daily them. That said I do have years-old GMK sets without any shine because I’ve taken special care when using them.
That leads into hygiene. Even an oily bro like me can avoid shining with enough care - and even the most naturally oil-free hands can do accelerated damage to a set of keys if they’re sweaty and cruddy.
Put all that together and you have why the few GMK sets I’ve used at work all shine within the first day of use - I type a lot, I drag my fingers and rest them on keys, I’m oily, and it gets really hot at work without much opportunity for hand washing.
Say all that to say - if you’re buying the set for any kind of regular use, make peace with it shining sooner or later, or get a dye-sub PBT set instead. The ABS sets will basically last forever, staying legible through it all, they just won’t keep their factory texture.
One more point of comparison between ABS and PBT; almost universally, ABS can hold more rich colors - PBT clone sets of ABS colorways tend to be underwhelming compared to the original. Generally speaking: when I’m prioritizing durability, I go for PBT - and when I’m prioritizing aesthetics, I go for ABS. I enjoy using them both.
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Yea as Deadeye said, in the end both ABS and PBT will shine eventually. It’s just that PBT will take longer than ABS.
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The Gateron yellow has such a nice spring. It’s generally a bit heavier at the top AND the bottom than other springs in it’s weight range and length. Not sure how they accomplish that.
I know they are 63.5g and 15mm long. However, the only aftermarket spring I’ve found to be extremely close in weight and force curve in a stem-to-stem push test is a 67g TX medium spring. Anyone have another solution for matching this magical spring?
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In case you have/want a TKL, someone is selling a GMK Red Samurai kit on finn.no.
I thought, since you live in Norway, that might be a cheap way to get a kit 
EDIT: It’s even close to where you live, so you might actually go and take a look at it in person…
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Not to be a killjoy, but that seems hella risky to try a new, possibly destructive tactic on something that’s irreplaceable…
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I’ve successfully dyed polycarbonate withe iDye Poly with that method.
But only small parts, and only cheap and replaceable parts.
Keep the acetone away, just don’t!
Actually I wouldn’t dare using any organic solvent.
And in any case (pun intended), I personally would not risk an unreplaceable case. Even if I have already dyed polycarbonate, I would not want to try the method on a large and relatively heavy wall polycarbonate item.
I’m afraid an object that big it might get warped by the heat.
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I just built a Neo80. It works as expected on a PC both wired and BT. On a Mac, however, it works when it is wired, but in BT mode, shift + any key on the shift row (z, x, c, etc) does not return any value. The lowercase keys work fine on this row. I’m not a Mac user. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Does your Mac prompt you to identify the keyboard with that thing about pressing the keys to the left and right of shift?
Yes. I did that.
That’s pretty odd. Try reflashing the firmware?
Thanks. I was thinking about that. Is it common that apple products don’t play nice with mechanical keyboards or vice versa?
I’m not aware of any specific issues from QMK based boards. My personal experience is mostly with wired keyboards though.