I am using a KVM. There are three USB ports on the back. One with a little dedicated mouse icon, one with a little dedicated keyboard icon, and then one labelled with USB2.
My hunch was that the dedicated mouse and keyboard ones were NOT usb2 since they are not labelled as such. The tech specs for the KVM only mention usb2 for the one port as well.
I am using a coiled cable! Good thought on that. I can test that as well.
Thanks for the assist!
Just tried it. Hmm straight cable still didn’t work. Again, seems to be that the KBD8x MKII is the only on that has issues.
The reason this all came about was that I got a new mouse, and logitech bolt receiver seems to have a power draw that is quite large for my usb hub (the one that was plugged into the usb2 port of the kvm). Moving stuff around, I discovered that the KBD8x doesn’t seem to respond with all the switching.
I think that your hunch is correct. If it’s an older KVM, it’s entirely possible they saved a few cents and used some USB 1 ports for the keyboard and mouse because nobody was running full microchips on their keyboards like we do today back in 2004 or whenever.
hah! The CTRL v1 was the exact board I had in mind when I wrote that “most” keyboards caveat for working with any USB 2+ ports.
It’s hard to say for sure without knowing all of the power output/passthrough/draw specs for each device, but my money would be on not enough power to run the chip on the board after everything else has drawn power.
That is what I was thinking. Pretty lame honestly cause it is not a cheap KVM, but the lack of any real information lead me to think that they did cheap out on those ports.
Update for anyone that cares lol, turns out the keyboards that were working in the USB1 ports didn’t have any of the functionality of layers etc. So they were just dumb keyboards…
Not quite the solution that I thought they were.
That’s incredibly frustrating. I don’t have the electronics wizardry to do it, but I wonder if it would be possible to upgrade the port to USB 3? Probably more effort than it’s worth…
There’s dozens of us! Quietly failing while appearing to work is one of the worst conditions for troubleshooting in every case. I’ve spent countless hours hunting down the wrong solutions because of bugs/issues like this.
Question: Are there generic monoblock tray mount cases out there for layouts other than 15x5 60%?
Particularly interesting would be an 18x5 FRL TKL (sans blockers), but also just curious.
Not exactly what you’re looking for, but the CandyBar is a single opening tray mount with a bunch of configuration options. Maybe you could find someone selling just the case?
Out of curiosity: Are there any quality Cherry (CYL) profile keycap sets with SA-style legends?
Closest I’ve seen are some DCS sets that use centered SA style legends instead of left-aligned Wyse or Cherry-style ones. I don’t know of any actual Cherry profile sets with those centered legends.
They are cylindrical spherical, but CXA is more similar in vertical sculpting and height to Cherry than SA or even KAT. They have those legends. The top shape is completely dissimilar to Cherry, though.
I found that the “TesterNN” 75% and 96% are basically what I had in mind, but 16 and 19 columns, respectively. Unfortunately, I plumb forgot what I had in mind when I asked the question, LOL. Probably trying to tweak a junkboard layout to fit.
The Drop + OLKB Preonic Acute Keycaps are inexpensive but decent dyesub, PBT, Cherry profile caps with centered legends, but the set will only work for ortholinear layouts (or possibly just the Planck/Preonic boards).
Do you all think a flexy 1.2mm. CEM3 PCB would be rendered useless with an aluminum plate?
I am thinking you might be a little more flex than an traditional PCB, and maybe it would have an effect of the sound… but curious to hear other peoples’ thoughts or experiences.
I don’t think it would make a big difference unless the plate has substantial cuts in it. There may be a small difference in both…probably not enough to make it worth the effort. This is speculation, since I haven’t tried it, but I have tried several plates in different keyboards.
I think it would make a difference with a half plate. I have a Purple Nurple PCB waiting for a half plate for this reason.
I was thinking about picking up the Purple Nurple as well. Just as a nice looking, extra PCB for a second internal build. Like I said, though my only spare plate at this time would be an aluminum one.
I did another build in a different board with a 1.2mm PCB FR4 and aluminum plate cause in the prototyping phase of the GB, everyone one commented on the sound. I do like the sound, but I don’t currently have anything to compare it too know if it really made a significant improvement.
My hunch is that both (sound and flex) do have some effect, but it is very slight 
It’s definitely a nice PCB! I have mine planned for my Ellipse but sort of want a second one to do a 1.2mm Salvation build.
EDIT: I guess I can drop the whole assembly into the Salvation and be okay with it not being totally plateless.
Yes. Very slight difference if none at all with a traditional plate. If it was a 1/2 plate it would be quite noticeable though.
I should mention, however, the sound will be a bit different as well. Thinner PCBs generally resonate more. So it’s possible that (with a full plate) the difference in sound would be more noticeable than the difference in feel.
