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I agree, fine things are nice, but working to make something as close to perfection as possible is intrinsically more satisfying.

I lucked into the keycaps, and was surprised how well they matched. The sound is amazing. It’s thocky with either Akko cream blues or feker pandas. Definitely not for a shared office though.

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  • Akko MDA Creamy keycaps
  • Artisan keycap from Yusha Kobo
  • Gateron Quinn switches (hand lubed by IKASAYA)
  • TX AP screw-in, long-pole stabs
  • Rosewood case from KPrepublic
  • Hotswap PCB, POM plate, and foam kit from SZR KBD

Really happy with how this board turned out. VIAL worked to help customize the layout a bit (and I’ve already tweaked it a bit further from the photo above).

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Slapped on DCD Banana with some gat yellows for fun.

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Also took out the yellow and blue accent keycaps. NK Taro looks so good

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Looks good!

Baionlenja Gehirn OBJ.1 tray mount
Wooting module with PCB mount screw in stabs and polycarb plate
Gateron Jade HE switches
GMK Modo Light w/ GMK Kaiju accent keys

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TKD Cycle7
Key Kobo Nori
Vertex V1 Switches
PC Plate

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Looks fantastic! :green_heart:

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Handwired Adalyn with Miao MCU and FAK firmware. At least it should be, firmware is still a big work in progress for me.

  • TTC NCR switches
  • MT3 Dusk

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i love it! :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

Beautiful board. Love the QAZ in Alice style. How do you like FAK, and how many I/O pins does the Miao make available for your key matrix?

FAK is currently quite the hassle for me tbh, I’m not really a code guy and I don’t think I get everything working as I want without some help. Would I go that way again? Currently probably not. The board is wired with 5 Columns and 8 rows, so 13 pins used for GPIO

1 Like

Finished the latest handwire junkboard. This one is a no-stabs southpaw 1800 variant, with certain choices dictated by the specific set of $11 keycaps I had lying around (note that the first amazon photo is a slightly different set altogether). The white balance is all messed up, but they are Cherry profile and appear to be clones of GMK Striker if the entire set were the muted blue of the Escape and Enter keys. I don’t know why they are so washed out in my photos. The blown-out white balance also really emphasizes the seams in a way that is not quite true to life, where the matte black of one part tends to blend into the next. Oh well, no one will accuse me of trying to make these things look better than they are. Upside down “spacebars” taken from the 40%/ergo folks, and it’s surprisingly nice. RP2040, KMK, Outemu dustproof green. I’m more pleased than a grown man should be to have got the LED indicators working with little trouble, LOL.

More photos





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The only way :grimacing: Fuzzy skin on the outside of the case?

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Yup. Until everybody starts using it, it doesn’t scream “3d printed” quite so loudly. Although, that’s barely a case at all. More like spacers with a sidewall.

My kitchen had slightly better lighting than the office, too.

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Finally built my 8XV3.0 last night. Went with Gateron Deeppings (hand lubed), TX AP screw ins, on PP plate. Turned out super nice! I really like the sound the PP plate produces, gonna have to get some more of them for my other boards!

Edit: Swapped out JTK Griseann for DCS Dark Sky & oh my god does this board sing with DCS! I have to get more PP plates like immediately, it really elevated this board into something special IMHO!

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Does PP plate mean polypropylene? If so, how does the plate compare with other plastics like POM or PC? I have tried a POM plate and case and really liked the sound and you have me wondering if I should try polypropylene.

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Yep polypropylene plate. It’s a good bit softer than POM & even softer than PC. It also gives a nice deep sound signature, deeper than both POM & PC. At least those the first two things to jump out at me when using it.

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Partial family photo!
Top left to right: ut47.2, 0xCB Static, tofu redux, tofu redux, cycle7, viktus sinne, qk60, arc60, bd60, klippe T, HMKB60, rule60v2

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