Double posting because I’m so happy with this build. Finished my Jaguar V2 today because GMK Mictlán came in the mail. I absolutely love this set and appreciate vheissudotme for making a set that represents a part of Mexican culture.
With the Jaguar, it is the best looking build I own.
Finally got around to taking some photos of my Spectacle60
BugerWorks BBox60
-Plateless build with all but the 2 outer most standoffs on either side removed and some o-rings put on them
-DZ60 Rev2 hotswap PCB
-Dragonride Peach Toot switches with factory lube
-Melgeek Amber Stabs with 205g0 and dialectic grease
-3USD taobao Keycaps in a very interesting profile
What a lovely green!! Wonderful pairing 
Thank you. I’m a big fan of the green too. I think it looks great.
that profile is really unique! lovely shots
Still a work in progress, but my DIY “retro-ish” 83-key TKL is fully functional.
Your project got me thinking!
My current board is a compact 65%
I have been vaguely thinking about a follow-up to add a bit of space around the arrows and macro keys. (The difference in sculpt isn’t quite enough to help my fingers to find their places easily … and the gap would make it much easier to place and route the MCU etc.) I had in mind something like,
But after some experimenting I realised the ergonomics of using the arrows with modifiers isn’t great because fingers have a longer reach than thumbs. So I thought I would try something more like your retro-inspired layout, using the function keys for symmetry.
(Dunno yet if I will actually get some JTK HSA hyperfuse keycaps!)
This board would be about 400 x 100 mm, even more widescreen than cinerama.
I don’t normally have much use for function keys. At the moment I have macros on fn + A-L for switching desktops, which I could move to the left-hand F cluster. My current F1-F4 column has macros for placing windows which I would put on the upper nav cluster, which seems like a good place for some novelty caps.
I’m also not sure about the 6u space bar, they are irritatingly rare. Might go back to a more common layout with 1.25u modifiers. Or just reduce one of the modifiers by 0.25u, tho I don’t like the idea of having a place on the main block without row stagger. (picky!)
Hey! I know that board! I definitely ran across your Keybird and its predecessor while researching my project. The material choice and workmanship are both very nice and very clever. As I’ve looked more and more, I’ve realized it’s only the very specific combination that’s unique about my board, but nothing else was exactly what I wanted to try, and it’s been very satisfying to build something that has daily-driver potential.
I should have considered polishing or otherwise finishing my switchplate before starting, but the workbench wants what it wants, and it wanted to start soldering switches, and a sandwich leaves lots of options available for later. Then, if I get motivated enough, I have enough plates to make two more boards, because three was less than 50% more expensive than doing one. I did already adjust the layout a little, partly to better match my bad typing habits, and partly to lean into the BBC Micro look. I grew up on the Apple II, C64, and Atari machines, but Acorn had a real winner with that design. I also feel that if a keyboard can say something about its maker/user, then my devoting 3.5 units to keys that correct my mistakes is very appropriate.
Your follow-up idea looks very elegant. The symmetry would really show off a nice set of keycaps. There was a poster on my GH thread who also mentioned they like to nudge the arrow keys up higher. The southpaw numpad crowd would approve of adding extra keys that lived left of the alphas. 
Have a look at https://68keys.io
This site provides a QMK-programmable PCB design that can be manufactured to order (minimum 5) in China.
It is my favourite layout, introduced by the mythical Magicforce68 keyboard, but now also available from a handful of custom keyboard designers e.g. Stellar65 or the Wuque Studio Ikki68.
You can also gut a Magicforce68 bought on the cheap from Amazon and replace the PCB (and switches and keycaps) to get more programming options. That is, if you like desoldering and soldering 
In return, you get a case with a wonderfully low typing angle.
The F1 to F12 function keys are easily accessible by hitting Fn + one of the digits or - or =.
Give in to your hate, symmetry lovers!! Yes, I can go split-backspace, but am refusing to out of pure spite!
Split spacebar on 60% is kinda fun though…
Specs:
Edit: Oh Yeah force break helped the acoustics out a lot on this board!
I hope you don’t type the wrong thing and get the mummy’s curse
Good looking board. The budget board space is really upping the game this year.
Thanks, this is Kemove‘s board
Got the oak “twigs” and 3D printed access covers installed onto my hand-wired BBC Micro inspired custom tkl-ish layout, as well as adjusting the layout slightly to better fit my (lack of) typing skills. I have plates to make up to two more. Going to live with this one for a while and see what changes (beyond additional fit & finish steps) I’d make on a follow-up. I suppose I could slice off part of a plate as well and have a HHKB-inflected 60%, but I do like my arrows. The aluminum should also be soft enough to split that backspace or recombine the left shift.
What can you tell us about the keycaps? Beige legends on… burgundy? Brown?
That’s PBTfans Pyga; warm cream legends with translucent dark red caps double-shot around them. The colorway is inspired by pyrope garnet.
