It would make a good “Yes, but is your case this see-through?” vid at the very least…
Jokes aside, I agree that it isn’t really worth the hassle. Just meant it as a joke because hot dam he paints alot!
There are also some full-metal sockets. For example, the Simpler 60 (in GB) is making use of it
This same style can also be found on certain prebuilt boards such as RK-G68 (My First Custom Keyboard | RK-G68 Build - YouTube)
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I think these metal sockets with a coating of rubber or plastic would be the most ideal solution. Then you get the extra toughness of an all metal socket, without the possibility of it shorting itself out on the case.
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I’m about to solder those millmax sockets but I’m still deciding whether I should go with solder or solder paste. Any tips on soldering using the solder paste? Do I just brush on the solder paste on the socket before putting it into the pcb? Or putting it into the pcb then brush solder paste on the socket and pad? It Hopefully it doesn’t sound too silly. 
Those will be as strong as the pads on the PCB, meaning that if you lift a pad you are in the same position as with Kailh hotswap sockets.
Buuuuut those have two pads per socket and you need one socket for each switch pin, and that means that this solution is at least 2 times sturdier than the Kailh solution because at least 2 times pad area on the PCB 
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I go with thin solder for milmax. And solder paste for holtite sockets
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I put together this chart a while back for mill max. Imma just leave this here for the new folks.
Another good resource has been Mill Max hotswap sockets 0305 vs 7305 vs Holtite
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FYI: Kailh Sockets in more colors now (pink, purple, blue and green)
(Sorry for the double post)
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So cool. I’d absolutely dig these in an acrylic or PC whatever.
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We’re inching closer to a fully transparent keyboard every year. The final step is a transparent PCB!
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Anyone know anything on these? I’ve been searching for hours and hours at this point. These could solve a couple real hard points I have with a couple Choc split ergo keyboard issues I’m having.
Pretty cool looking, but I’d only have a go with these if you’re fairly experienced with soldering. From the warning on the site I’m assuming these use straight PC for the housing material which has a pretty low melting temp for parts that are gonna be soldered. The original Zealios had a similar problem where if you overheated the pins even a little bit the housing would start to melt. These have the plastic even closer to heat source when soldering & a bigger piece of metal you are heating so I’d expect them to be really temperamental when hand soldering.
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I’ve used them with low melt bismuth solder paste fine. I wouldn’t use lead free though. Just too close to the melt point of the material.
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