I can respect that for sure, some very early retooled blacks were the only linears I liked & used up till I built this gat yellow build I’m using right now. I still got the batch too since they were so smooth. Think I might throw the batch of 65g TX springs I got coming in those & put them back in action now that I’m digging these gat yellows so much.
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I’ve heard a ton of good things about Gat Yellows over the years. Only thing that has stopped me is I’ve tended to gravitate between Gat black springs and Cherry black springs as my preferred weight. 72g sprits are another favorite of mine.
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I’m usually the same way & prefer between 60g to 80g switches, but for whatever reason the Gat yellow springs feel very comfortable to me. I would say to give them a shot with how affordable Gat switches are & just throw some heavier springs in them if you do not like the weighting.
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If you want the same keypress feel but with 5g or so more weight, the Gat black inks are the way to go.
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One of these days, I’m going to get retooled blacks/reds so that I don’t have to tiptoe around all the trouble that Creams cause.
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That’s part of why I landed on them. I found the least amount of annoyances and tweaks needed to make me happy with plain old Gat blacks and Cherry blacks.
The creak from the cream switch tops slightly sliding left and right isn’t a huge deal, but it’s enough to bug me.
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A full week in with my Klippe build & lubed light linears are growing on me big time! This past week I have basically exclusively used my Klippe build & switching back to one of my tactile boards is actually a bit jarring. I was basically 99% sure tactiles were my switch type since I have experimented with all switch types in various builds, but I really have to question that now. Of course I will always enjoy all three major switch types & own builds with all of them, surprisingly though lubed light linears might be my daily from here on out.
To the point that I have actually decided to rebuild my E6.5 with Gat blacks. I was gonna go yellows, but think they would look way out of place with it’s Red/white color scheme. Also because of my previous experience with Gat blacks I put in a MK Disco way back, I have a sneaking suspicion Gat blacks & yellows use the same springs. If not I just ordered a ton of TX springs (a pack of each 50g, 55g, 60g, &65g) I can swap into them for a feel I like. I considered some other higher end linear switches for this, but fell on Gat blacks because in all honesty vs lubed Tealios & Creams, the Gats & the Tealio felt the best with basically no difference in feel between the three.
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Continue the descent! Find out how deep this linear habit goes.
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That’s what happened to me, I hardly use my tactiles anymore
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I’m still going to build with some MOD-M tactiles, but I think that high-tactility switches aren’t quite my game. I’m probably going to delube-and-relube my Holy Pandas and donate them to a friend if she wants them.
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The MOD tactiles are a nice medium tactility switch IME, should be a good choice for what you’re looking for. I think they are a great in between of browns & HPs, now that V1 Zeals are hard to find. Although look around for the best price on them. I’ve seen them going for as high as $0.80 per switch all the way down to $0.55 per switch. I would not pay top end prices for them, they are nice switches but not worth over say $0.65 a switch IMHO.
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Originative.co? Making things that are pricey and largely irrelevant to the current trends in the keyboard market? Who ever could’ve guessed that it would happen?
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I may just end up with Ergo Clears, who knows. The classic has never lost it’s relevancy, after all.
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Yeah gotta love Oco, LOL! Ergo clear are still a great choice in the same vein as MOD-M tactiles too. The Ergo clears will even have a better sound than MODs IMO, so agreed the classic has not lost it relevance. Whichever one you decide on, you should end up with what you’re looking for.
Any good tips for de-lubing switches (bases in particular, I’ve had good luck de-lubing stems with a microfibre cloth)? I’ve, uh, got some overlubed Tealios that could stand to have some lube removed.
When I need to reduce lube, I use a brush to pick-up the excess lube then wipe it off with a tissue before repeating.
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Hopefully this guide will help!
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So don’t buy pre-lubed switches…okay , got it. Thanks for the info. 
Once you go down the path of light linears you don’t go back 
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My findings from tinkering with UHMWPE:
- It’s very smooth but need smooth housing, smoother the better.
- Works best in polycarb housing. In Aliaz, it’s a Tealios clone.
- Makes swishing noise, noticeably in POM and nylon housings, very little in polycarb housings.
- Seems to need slightly thicker lube to get same result on POM stems. I had to use 206g00 on UHMWPE stem to get the same result as 205g0 on POM.
In conclusion, it’s a finicky version of Tealios stem. Note that the cost of Aliaz and the stem is around GB price of Tealios.
UPDATE: Beware that Aliaz/UHMWPE hybrid wobbles more than Tealos V2, even with film.
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