I have two Realforce R1 projects in the pipeline, the first one is for my 87UW. In general cleaning, adding silencing rings, put an MX slider on ESC position for artisan keycap support. Another thing I want to take care of is the bending of the plate and the case.
I think the plate is easy to fix, will it fix then the case automatically? Also I think I need in the middle of the case also kind of feet or support. Anyone see a similar situation? Maybe because I am typing as strong as I am with pure muscle power?
For the second project I have to decide if I want to go full MX and make a standard bottom row, and put my 87UB internals in a PC XFR case. So that finally I can spend amounts of money on GMK sets. Drilling holes would be no problem for me, but the question like asked 1000 times already is: is it so bad then, wobble, etc.? Or newer available sliders better? Sorry for asking these questions again.
hehe. The top half of one of my cases bows like yours because one of the clips is broken. If youâre planning to join the next XRF group buy Iâd personally leave the plastic case alone. Even if you could bend it straighter with heat, I donât know if the plastic can stand up to a lot of manipulation.
you can go full MX right now with Deskeys and or Novatouch parts, but Deskeys has issues with their spacebar and 2u slidersâIâd wait a few more months to see if Deskeys reworks the spacebar adapters. You can use parts from a Novatouch but youâd still be left with a 6u spacebar unless you cut into the 87uâs plate to move the spacebar stab housings to a 6.25u configuration. That tbh sounds like a massive pain in the - but P R E F E R E N C E
itâs not bad, but itâs not stock Topre, is all I can say. EC stems and caps have a charm and just work well together whereas I always feel and hear the difference with MX-on-Topre.
I went with this mod because with the stock domes, after a day, I get pain in the fingers.
With these, even if they are rated at 45g, they are lighter compared with the stock ones and also the tactility is a little less.
Regarding the installation, I cut them so that only the North and South sides sit on the outside of the housing. If you have patience and steady hands, you could probably cut them to similar shape as the stock ones.
The spring also doesnât sit fully in the dome (I believe that the dome height is lower vs stock) . I would say that about one coil is outside. This doesnât affect the functionality or the sound at all.
This is how the dome sheet looked like before cutting it. I think that the ones that they currently have on their site would be easier to fit.
Started to refresh my 87UW 55g keyboard, first of all the plate. There were some rusty spots, not that much, but a bigger one which I could see between the caps, so sanding (which was fast with a rotary sander), cleaning, and varnish. Currently drying.
Sorry for the necromancy here, but do we know what the various lubes do to BKE domes if anything? Unrealâs guide seems to have us lube generously multiple times and Iâm not sure if thatâs going to be the best move.
Fair! Iâll test it out unlubed first. I saw that discord photo back in march 21 claiming that silicone lubes tend to warp OG domes and didnât know if it was kind of a time bomb.
I have not yet had a chance to try a topre keyboard yet, but recently saw the EC87 project from Cipulot and was looking for the parts necessary to build one if I have the PCB made. It looks like I can get most everything from NIZ keyboards (housings, sliders, domes). I could not find any of the coils / spring pieces that are not springs. Does anyone know if these are available anywhere?
imo the most economical way to get all the parts is to get a realforce second hand from japan off mercari/yahoo auctions. You can get everything from harvesting the boards except the mx sliders which you can get from deskeys. @PenguinMoe
Thanks for the tip - I was not aware of mercari and will have to watch. I guess I was looking for the coils as components because it seems wasteful to me to buy a complete board when I am not planning to use the case or PCB. The whole save our planet and all of that.
TX-66C case w/brass handles
104UK Hi-Pro keycaps
Deskey Tiffany domes V1
205g0 lubed sliders
Dielectric grease on mods and spacebar
Unreal X Deskey housing gaskets
how right you are! I really hate EC projects that necessitate the use of a donor board. I understand NIZ is slightly lower quality, but I donât mind how it sounds and feels compared to other topre, and most importantly, you only have to order the part that you need!
Hi! I followed buddyâs mod guide and Iâm trying to get some help. After modding the board Iâve run into a strange issue. It works great initially, but after sitting for a few hours it starts to act up.
key presses donât work
multiple inputs from a single press etc.
Iâve taken it apart and put it back together carefully over 5 times now and itâs still the case.
Does anyone have any idea what next steps I might take to figure out the cause of my issue?
Pcb lubing has become more problematic for key registration if you overdo it. Wipe off as much as you can if you did this step. Also check that the springs are loosely sitting in the domes.
Thanks for replying potato, I did this step and think it might be the core issue, but at this point the lube has probably gotten into the domes, whatâs the best way to clean them and the springs?
Iâve had this happen to me a couple of times and itâs as what @insolentpotato said, the pcb lubing interferes with actuation. Iâll make sure to reflect that on the original write up. As for cleaning the springs and pcb, I usually just gently wipe them down with a paper towel.
